Reptiles & Amphibians Monitor Lizards

How to Care for a Pet Savannah Monitor

Characteristics, Housing, Diet, and Other Information

Savannah Monitor lizard, studio shot

Martin Harvey / Getty Images

Savannah monitors are large pet lizards that are one of the more docile species of the monitor group. This lizard hails from the savannah or grasslands of sub-Saharan Africa. They are not overly active creatures and usually tolerate handling.

Savannahs are popular pets in the United States but don't always thrive in captivity. This lizard is not a pet for an amateur reptile lover; they have stringent care requirements to keep them healthy.

Learn all about the savannah monitor’s temperament, housing requirements, care needs, and more.

Species Overview

Names: Savannah monitor, Bosc monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus exanthematicus

Adult Size: 3 to 4 feet long

Life Expectancy: 10 years average; some may live up to 15 years

Savannah Monitor Behavior and Temperament

Savannah monitors spend most of their time basking in the sun, burrowing in the soil, and eating a variety of small prey, such as rodents, smaller lizards, and insects.

Regular handling from an early age makes this a tame, docile creature. But like all monitors, if they are not a captive-bred baby or handled often, the savannah monitor can become aggressive and can bite. Their teeth are small but sharp, their claws can scratch, and they use their long, heavy tail as a whip to defend themselves.

This lizard requires a large cage setup and strict environmental control—their care is comprehensive and not recommended for beginners.

Click Play to Learn More About the Popular Savannah Monitor

Housing the Savannah Monitor

Savannahs are strong and known for being escape artists. Make sure the cage is entirely enclosed and has a secure lock.

A hatchling or juvenile savannah will live comfortably in a 55-gallon aquarium for about six months, but they grow quickly. Most owners have their adult setup ready when they bring home a baby. The enclosure will need to be at least twice the lizard's length at adulthood. An adult requires an 8-foot long by 4-foot wide cage. It should be at least 3 feet high.

The height of the enclosure should prevent your savannah monitor from escaping, and provide space for a branch or other decoration in the cage on the off chance they want to climb. Monitors can be destructive, so only provide rocks and hides; decorations aren't necessary. Their claws will shred screen-sided enclosures, so glass or Plexiglas siding is best. Plan for a place to hang lights and heat sources above the cage.

Make room for a large water dish (you can also use a cat litter box) that will allow the monitor to submerge their entire body.

Feces should be spot cleaned every day from the enclosure, especially if it is in their water. Thoroughly clean the entire cage every two weeks and find a safe place to hold your lizard while doing so. Some owners use a hard plastic pet carrier or the bathtub.

Heat

Provide an average enclosure temperature of 95 F to 100 F and a basking spot between 110 F and 130 F. As cold-blooded creatures, all reptiles need to regulate their body temperature. The cage needs a temperature gradient down to 85 F in the day and as low as 75 F at night. Use ceramic heat emitters instead of lights for achieving nighttime temperature requirements.

Light

UVB lighting is necessary for most lizards, including monitors. A high-percentage UVB output bulb (8-10% percent) should be on for a 10- to 12-hour cycle daily to mimic the sun's output. Change the bulbs every six months, even if the light doesn't burn out. The invisible UVB rays stop emitting after that period.

Humidity

Being native to Africa, savannah monitors were historically kept in dry, hot environments in captivity, which mimicked their natural habitats. More recently, though, monitor owners see better results by providing more humidity and areas to burrow.

A hygrometer inside the cage should monitor humidity in the enclosure accurately. Provide a gradient in the substrate of almost 100% humidity and try to keep it above 60% in the coolest part of the cage. The basking area will likely be a moisture-free zone.

Substrate

Reptile owners sometimes use substrate or bedding to line the bottom of a cage. Savannah monitors are diggers and will appreciate substrate for burrowing.

Savannahs are voracious eaters and may gobble up substrate with their prey item. Choose bedding that will not cause impaction or clog the digestive tract. Small substrate like calcium sand is semi-digestible in tiny amounts.

Paper towels, butcher paper, towels, reptile-safe carpet, felt, and other easily cleaned and changed flat bedding options are best for messy or more aggressive lizards. If your monitor is on the tame side, try natural bedding like sand, organic soil, or a mixture of both that they can burrow down at least 24 inches deep. The used or soiled substrate will need to be changed regularly, at least every two weeks.

Food and Water

Savannah monitors are carnivores and opportunistic eaters that are prone to obesity. Monitor their weight to prevent excess weight gain. Feed juveniles three times a week, but adult savannahs may only need feeding once a week. You can also feed them at scheduled times to get your lizard used to a routine, if you want.

The amount you feed depends on the size of your lizard. On average, juveniles (up to 3 feet long) should eat about one to four fuzzy mice or one small mouse, supplemented with a few insects. Adults (larger than 3 feet long) should eat two to three adult mice per week or one rat, supplemented with some insects.

Feed savannahs gut-loaded insects, such as crickets, roaches, and earthworms. Gut-loading involves feeding nutritious food to prey, so those nutrients pass on to the lizard.

Dust calcium powder onto insects and young rodents that don't have good bone density. A low-fat, high-quality (grain-free) canned dog or monitor food should be fed only occasionally, as too much protein can cause gout.

If you worry about impaction from your lizard eating substrate with their prey, don't feed your savannah in their cage. Get a separate, plain-bottomed tank for feeding time—this will also help keep the enclosure clean.

Never hand feed this animal, as they may mistake your fingers for food. You do not want your lizard to associate your hand with a tasty treat.

Change and clean the water container daily and replenish it with filtered water.

Common Health Problems

Common savannah monitor illnesses are treatable by an exotics veterinarian. Potential health problems include:

  • Parasitic infections: Symptoms include sluggishness, lack of appetite, and vomiting. They can also get external parasites or mites that suck their blood through their skin. Both of these conditions are potentially life-threatening and common in savannah lizards kept in captivity. 
  • Respiratory infections: Like many reptiles, savannah monitors are susceptible to respiratory infections. Open-mouthed breathing, wheezing, and mucus in the mouth are the most common symptoms.
  • Metabolic bone disease: Savannah monitors can develop this if they do not get adequate UVB rays and calcium and vitamin D supplementation.
Savannah Monitors as Pets

Illustration: The Spruce / Kaley McKean

Choosing Your Savannah Monitor

When buying your savannah monitor, look for one that has been "ranched," meaning they were bred in a native but controlled environment, or get one from a reputable breeder. Although the IUCN lists the savannah monitor as least concern, it's important to purchase from a breeder, as it ensures your pet wasn’t taken from the wild. Attend local reptile shows or expos to meet breeders and shop for lizards and supplies while there. They can cost from $25 to $100.

If you have a lot of experience with reptiles, inquire at reptile rescues or adoption centers for savannah monitors. Many inexperienced pet owners will surrender their animals once they grow to adult size and become harder to manage and care for. Keep in mind that many of these pets may not be hand-tamed, are stressed, and need rehabilitation from neglect.

Signs of a healthy monitor include smooth, even skin; no traces of mites (small, reddish-brown spots around the face); clear, bright eyes; rounded, full body; and a strong, even, smooth jawline.

Different Species of Monitors

If you’re interested in other lizards similar to the savannah monitor, check out:

You also can check out all of our other monitor lizard articles.

FAQ
  • Are savannah monitors good pets?

    Savannah monitors can make good pets for experienced lizard owners. These animals can be tamed with proper handling, but they grow large and have specific care requirements.

  • How big of a tank does a savannah monitor need?

    Hatchlings and juveniles need a 55-gallon aquarium, at a minimum. Adults will need a larger enclosure that’s at least 8 feet long by 4 feet wide and 3 feet high.

  • How big does the savannah monitor get?

    As adults, savannah monitors can reach 4 feet in length.

The Spruce Pets uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.
  1. Parasitic Diseases of Reptiles. Merck Veterinary Manual.

  2. Bacterial Diseases of Reptiles. Merck Veterinary Manual.

  3. Metabolic and Endocrine Diseases of Reptiles. Merck Veterinary Manual.