- Species: Varanus exanthematicus
- Quite readily available in the pet trade.
- Life span of 10-12 years.
- At 3 to 4 feet fully grown, the Savannah is a medium sized monitor but still requires a very large enclosure.
- With regular handling and attention, Savannah monitors can become fairly tame, unlike some other monitors.
- All monitors can inflict deep painful bites and scratches
- Despite their availability, Savannah monitors are not a good choice for beginning reptile keepers, due to thier size and habitat requirements.
- Monitors are considered to be among the most intelligent reptiles. They are also escape artists and require a very secure enclosure.
- It is best to obtain a captive bred juvenile if possible.
Care
- Need a very large and secure enclosure. Juveniles can start out in a large tank (e.g. 55 gallon) but will grow quickly so new owners might want to start with an adult sized custom enclosure. The adult enclosure should be at least twice as long as the monitor and as wide as the the monitor's length, so a minimum of 8 feet by 4 feet wide should be planned. It should be as tall as is practical (reduces the chances of climbing out). Solid sides are recommended to allow maintenance of high temperatures, and no screens (will be quickly shredded). The enclosure must be solidly constructed, or Savannahs will find a way to break out! Alternatively, some owners dedicate a room (suitably monitor-proofed) to their Savannah monitor.
- Substrate: indoor/outdoor carpeting or brown butcher paper are the most practical for cleaning up after these somewhat messy lizards (they eat a lot and defecate a lot). Some use bark or gravel, but you must ensure that the monitors are not ingesting the substrate accidentally with their meals.
- Temperature: gradient from 85-90 F (29-32 C) with a basking spot of 95-100 F (35-39 C). A combination of under tank heating and a basking light on one side of the tank works well. Make sure the appropriate temperature gradient is provided by measuring temperatures in various spots around the tank. Night temperature can drop to 75-85 F (24-29 C). Do not use basking lights to achieve night time temperatures - use heating pads and/or ceramic heating elements.
- Light: in addition to the incandescent basking light, provide a full spectrum UVA/UVB light for 10-12 hours per day.
- Water: provide a large shallow sturdy water dish - ideally large enough to allow them to submerge themselves. They will often defecate in their water so frequent cleaning is required.
- Hides: a couple of hides should be provided, at each end of the temperature gradient. Cardboard boxes can be used for the rapidly growing juveniles (start small and replace with larger boxes as needed), and wooden boxes are a good choice for adults. A few large rocks or other furnishings can be provided, but monitors are fairly destructive so don't go overboard.
Feeding
- Monitors are generally good eaters, and will become obese if over fed, often leading to health problems.
- Juveniles can be fed a combination of insects (a variety is best, such as crickets, earthworms and Zoophorba worms) and mice. Start with pinkies when the monitor is large enough, and work up in size as the monitor grows.
- Insects can be fed live (and provide exercise as the monitor hunts) but it is recommended that rodents be fed pre-killed. Use tongs to offer pre-killed prey.
- Adults can eat mice and small rats. Avoid feeding prey too large (no wider than the monitor's head) or regurgitation of the meal may occur.
- Juveniles can be fed every 2-3 days (1-4 pinkie or fuzzy mice, along with insects as long as they will accept them), and adults twice a week. The amount the adults need is a matter of judgement based on body condition and activity (remembering that obesity is common in monitors).
- Low fat, high quality dog food or canned monitor food can be fed occasionally only.