Tank Size
For a single bearded dragon a bare minimum of a 40 gallon tank will
be necessary, but bigger is definitely better (55 gallon or larger is better). A secure screen top cover will also be necessary.
Substrate
Substrate is a hotly debated area of bearded dragon care. For juveniles, any loose substrate includind sand should be avoided, as there is too great a risk of ingestion (accidental while eating or out of curiosity) and sumbsequest intestinal impaction. Paper toweling, papers, or indoor outdoor carpeting can all be used (make sure there are no loose threads on carpeting). For adults, washed play sand (available at hardware stores; not fine silica sand) can be used if desired, although paper or indoor-outdoor carpet works fine too. Do not use wood shavings, corn cob, walnut shell, or other substrates that could cause problems if swallowed.
If sand is used, feces can be scooped out with a cat litter scoop, and the cage can be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected several times a year.
Cage Furnishings
Bearded dragons are semi-arboreal and like to perch a little bit off the ground. A selection of sturdy rocks, half logs, and branches can give them something to climb on, especially in the part of the tank used as a basking area. They shoudl also be a hide (or two -- one at each end of the temperature gradient). A couple of simple silk plants also make a nice addition to the tank (if they are too leafy crickets and other prey may have too many hiding spots).
Lighting
Exposure to UVA and UVB
radiation by use of a special light designed for reptiles is extremely important. Special fluroescent bulbs can be found at pet stores, and these will likely run the length of the tank, but be sure they are overlap the basking area. Your bearded dragon should be able to get within 6-8 inches of these lights to benefit from the UV emitted. The amount of UV produced by these bulbs decreases over time so they need to be replaced as recommended by the manufacturer. Mercury vapor bulbs provide both UVA/UVB and heat, and can be used for both UV production and a basking lamp. It is important that UV producing lights be directed through a screen top rather than glass to the UV rays can reach the lizards.
Exposure to sunlight (not through a window) can also be beneficial, but if time is provided outdoors, shade and shelter must be available so the dragon can thermoregulate. Do not place outside in a glass sided tank as overheating will quickly occur in the sunlight.
Temperatures
Proper temperatures are also extremely important. As with other reptiles, a temperature
gradient should be provided, as well as a basking spot. The gradient should go from
80-85 F (26-30 C) on the cool side, up to a basking
temperature of about 95-105 F (35 -40 C). Night time temperatures
can fall to approximately 65-70 F (18-21 C).
Heat can be provided via an incandescent light or ceramic heater (make sure a ceramic socket is used), or a mercury vapor bulb (again, use a ceramic socket) in a dome reflector hood. You may need to experiment with wattage and distance from the cage to provide appropriate temperatures. Use thermometers in the cage to monitor the temperatures at the basking spot, as well as either end of the gradient (never rely on estimates!). If necessary, and undertank heater can be used to supplement the heat especially at night if the room temperature is very low. A consistent light-dark cycle (12 - 14 hours light) must be provided (using the lights on a timer is the best way to ensure a consistent cycle).
Water
Water should be provided in a shallow dish. They can also be misted lightly, but not enough to make the environment wet or humid, however.
Next: Feeding Bearded Dragons